Have started painting. Sidepanel and oil tank, plus the fork shrouds I made earlier.
Saturday, 31 March 2012
Tinware
My TR6R came with lights originally, but I'm rebuilding it as a US West Coast TR6C....no lights. This means that my upper forks shrouds with headlamp brackets aren't going to be right, so I've made a couple of shrouds without the bracket.
Pipes
Fitted some '67 TR6C pipes - both on the left side, high pipes. The silencers were optional back in the day, so I'm going to see just how loud it is and get some silencers if it's really TOO much.
Wednesday, 25 January 2012
Rim
Built up the front wheel using a set of stainless spokes, nickel-plated brass nipples and a stainless rim in the same pattern as the original Dunlop rim.
I haven't built a wheelbuilding stand yet and someone (!) had borrowed my welder yet again and was late returning it so I was unable to knock one together, so I trued up the rim in place between the front forks. This helped get the wheel centred without having to measure offset - I just had to make sure it was centred between the stanchions. Finished up using a dial gauge, and was surprised at the amount of out-of-round caused by the welded join in the rim.
I haven't built a wheelbuilding stand yet and someone (!) had borrowed my welder yet again and was late returning it so I was unable to knock one together, so I trued up the rim in place between the front forks. This helped get the wheel centred without having to measure offset - I just had to make sure it was centred between the stanchions. Finished up using a dial gauge, and was surprised at the amount of out-of-round caused by the welded join in the rim.
Thursday, 19 January 2012
Nuts, part II
Found a little time today to make up the metric-thread sleeve nuts for the repro speedo; turned out pretty good, I think.
Wednesday, 18 January 2012
Nuts
Fitted the pushrods and rockerboxes. Bought a US model chainguard without the rear plate and fitted that. Engine plates are off again temporarily while I sort out a problem with one of the studs in the swingarm mount.
A while back I bought a repro speedo because the plan is to go for the '68 TR6C look with a single speedo offset to the right. This style of bracket requires special sleeve nuts and spacers in order to mate with the mounting studs on the bottom of the clock, so I picked up the necessary fasteners. All was looking good until I tried mounting the clock and discovered that the studs on the repro clock have a metric thread! The sleeve nuts are of course an Imperial thread (don't know if it's CEI or UNF. I may have to fire up the lathe and make up some bespoke nuts.
A while back I bought a repro speedo because the plan is to go for the '68 TR6C look with a single speedo offset to the right. This style of bracket requires special sleeve nuts and spacers in order to mate with the mounting studs on the bottom of the clock, so I picked up the necessary fasteners. All was looking good until I tried mounting the clock and discovered that the studs on the repro clock have a metric thread! The sleeve nuts are of course an Imperial thread (don't know if it's CEI or UNF. I may have to fire up the lathe and make up some bespoke nuts.
Saturday, 10 December 2011
Running gear
Fitted the forks, though they'll have to come out briefly to fit the upper shrouds. Swingarm went in without a hitch and some mid-price shocks finished the rear end. I've swapped out the upper yoke for a solid mount TR6C item and have fitted US bars. The bike is a US import TR6R, but I have no pipes or lights yet and plan to rebuild it to "C" spec.
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